Sony A7 Review: Is the Autofocus Too Slow?


Attempted to focus on my son’s eye…

In the first part of this ongoing review I called the new Sony A7 a “game changing camera”. Well I’ve been putting off writing this post because after further use of the camera I feel like I have to flip flop a bit on that original comment.

Slow Autofocus

The problem is the autofocus. We purchased the A7 with the 28-70 kit lens and it seemed like that lense was particularly slow at focusing. It was especially bad in low light conditions. And by low light conditions I’m not talking about shooting in moonlight, I’m talking about shooting inside your house with the lights on at night. The camera would constantly hunt for focus and half the time it will either lock focus at the wrong distance, be slightly off focus, or just be unable to focus at all. It was frustrating but I figured the kit lens only ended up costing $300, and we what we really wanted to do was pair the camera with the new Zeiss lenses that were released at the same time.

When we saw the Zeiss 35mm f/2.8 at a camera shop we were pretty excited to see what it was like. We actually got the chance to test it out on an A7 in the camera store. I immediately noticed how much faster the focusing seemed. The camera was snappy to lock focus on everything we pointed it at in the store. We purchased that lens and it’s been on the camera ever since.

The image quality (colour, sharpness, lack of distortion) from the Zeiss 35mm lens is fantastic. However, after using that lens for a few weeks now, the autofocus still doesn’t seem as fast as it should be.

Let me clarify here: it you’re taking photos of still life or you’re in a well lit environment then you probably won’t notice any issues with autofocus. If you’re shooting indoors, or your subject is moving at all then you probably have a 50/50 chance of making a sharp image. Our son is always on the move and this camera just doesn’t keep up. This has been disappointing, as the main reason we got this camera was to document our day-to-day life.

My Autofocus Settings

As it stands right now I’ve been using the centre point focus on the small focus area setting. This is the focus technique we used exclusively with our DSLR cameras, and it involves focusing on the subject with the centre point, and then recomposing. Over the years we’ve become quite fast at doing this (far faster than manually selecting or moving focus points), and we expected to have no troubles applying the technique to the A7. Unfortunately it just isn’t performing up to our expectations.

I’ve also tested out the camera’s eye autofocus mode (which automatically focuses on a subject’s eye). Unfortunately the Eye-AF mode only works occasionally in real life situations (it doesn’t work if you’re wearing glasses!) and it’s still slower than just focusing and recomposing.

One important factor to note: I have the focus assist light turned off (that’s the little orange light that turns on that’s supposed to help with focusing). You might be thinking “Well there’s your problem right there!”

Three things about the focus assist light: first, it really didn’t help that much with focusing. The camera would still hunt for, and miss, focus when the light was on. Second, the focus light is blindingly bright. What’s the point of using a small camera like this when it’s not only obvious that you’re taking a photo but you’re actually annoying the subject? Third, and maybe the most unfair point, the Canon 6D doesn’t have a focus assist light and it focuses fine under the same conditions. We’ve continued to use our Canon 6D alongside the Sony A7 under the same subject and lighting conditions (and same focus settings) and the Sony A7 just doesn’t focus as quickly as the 6D.

(I’m still trying out different focus settings, so if anyone has any suggestions, feel free to let me know!)

So what now?

I really wanted this camera to be good enough to completely replace our DSLRs, but maybe my super high expectations were a bit unreasonable. As disappointed as I am with the speed of the autofocus I still feel it’s a good camera for what it is. More than than, it’s the best option for what it is. It’s the best mirrorless camera on the market. There’s no other combination of full frame sensor, small lightweight body, and electronic viewfinder currently available.

Yes this camera still doesn’t stack up against a DSLR for auto focus speed, but maybe there’s still a place for it in the camera bag (or purse). We take the A7 with us everywhere and it’s not a burden to carry around at all. And it obviously takes way better photos than a camera phone.

My feeling is also that these cameras will continue to improve. Sony already has a huge lead over Canon and Nikon in the mirrorless market. Eventually these cameras will be good enough to fully replace DSLRs, and for the moment the A7 is still filling a very useful niche.

A couple notes

First, if anyone has any tips on improving the A7’s focusing performance let me know!

Second, keep in mind this is all my own opinion. I haven’t done any formal tests here, these conclusions are only based on an informal comparison between the Sony A7 and the Canon 6D.

I hope that if you’re interested in the Sony A7 that you still give it a shot (pun intended). Go to a camera store and test out the autofocus and see what you think yourself!

Stay tuned for a couple more followup posts as I continue this informal review of the Sony A7!

Rob Lim

Hi there, I’m Rob! I’m a photography ninja here at Photography Concentrate. I love all things photography: shooting, teaching and always learning more! If I’m not reading up on the latest photography news, or studying a technique, I’m probably reading a book or planning our next adventure!

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48 Comments // Leave a comment

  1. Question, in comparing focus with a 6D are you using the 6Ds viewfinder (and hence it’s DSLR phase detection system)? If so then a non DSLR simply will not compare to the speed and accuracy of a DSLR’s viewfinder focusing. Unfortunately it’s simply the state of the technology. Particularly in two cases:

    1) Low light
    2) Fast moving targets

    Doing in both is really going to show the difference. I don’t have a 6d but I do have a 60d and I recently also got the A7 and zeiss 35mm. I know with moving targets it’s been hit or miss, especially indoors.

    I’m still trying to figure out the focus settings myself, though I suspect trying out the different setups will yield an optimal if imperfect way to approach this specific situation with the focusing.

    • Hey Matthew! Thanks for your comment. I thought that the A7 model was supposed to have a phase detection focusing system (which is I guess why I expected DSLR speed auto focusing). Let me know if you find one setup that speeds things up!

      • It does indeed… This is where my knowledge is very limited on the technical details. The phase detection points on the Sony are like other mirrorless ones and a couple Canons, they are embedded onto the sensor itself vs on a DSLR where the primary mirror lets a minor amount of the go through and reflect onto a full phase detect sensor:

        Again, I don’t fully understand the full details of why a DSLR mirror setup works better though I would imagine it has to do with the full phase detect sensor receiving an image vs on the Sony (and other systems like it) it’s a few phase detect points embedded in between the imaging sensor (which naturally limits how many you can have since you don’t want to create massive gaps in the image itself).

        The Canon 70D is better at autofocusing since it’s a new type of tech called “Dual Pixel”, where they have a 1 to 1 imaging pixel + phase detect pixel on the sensor. Even it can’t quite compete with it’s own speed of the mirror phase detect system though, especially in low light. Again my guess is it’s down to size… in the mirror setup the phase detect focus point sensors can be as big as they need to be.

        • Wow, thanks for the detailed explanation Matthew!

          • Matthew Langley says

            Also, do you have face detection enabled? Typically if it can find a face I find it grabs the focus really well. Though I don’t recall how that works in low light.

          • I’m in the same boat. I have a young daughter who moves non-stop and I bought A7 to capture candid shot. I had the same observation and I was too disappointed coming from DSLR. Now I had Face Detection on and it seems to help. When my object is still and in good light I use either Single Shot AF with eye AF. When my object is still and in dark light I use DMF. When my object moves around I use Continuous AF. Thanks for this article and the discussion. I think it’s a very common problem for A7 owners especially parents with young kids.

  2. So one tip that may or may not help. Use the DMF mode, which will allow you to autofocus and then do any manual adjustments after that if needed. Most importantly this allows you to enable focus peaking, I recommend High and setting the color to red. This will give red highlights on your preview to what’s most likely in focus. With DMF you can choose to not do any manual focusing adjustments either after it auto focuses (but if it’s out of focus a quick little adjustment can get you in focus).

    • Thanks for the tip on focus peaking, I’ll definitely give that a shot!

      I have been using the manual zoom in focus in DMF mode, and it does help ensure focus is perfect. The problem is that once you’re zoomed in and have focus adjusted you have to either take the shot while zoomed in or wait a couple seconds for the camera to zoom out so that you can make sure your composition is right before taking the shot. I wish the zoom out part was a bit faster.

      • I thought so too, however… I’m getting focus peaking & MF magnification while pressing the AF/MF button, and once I have the focus dialed in, even light press on the shutter will return the full image in to view. So long as I still have the AF/MF button pressed, the AF doesn’t attempt to refocus, and the MF I adjusted holds while I compose and shoot.

  3. Still, that’s a cracking cushion photo you’ve captured!

    • Ha, yeah! The cushion kind of looks like it might be some kind of focusing chart – unfortunately the focus was set to the centre.

  4. I have the A7R. I noticed the AF illuminator doesn’t help much until it’s almost pitch dark then it’s an absolute necessity.

    Also, in the house in low light, try focusing on a variety of verticals. Hold the camera in landscape orientation, lock then shoot. Then try portrait orientation and try to lock the same spot. I’ve found that verticals lock better when the camera is held in landscape orientation, i.e. the subject line traverses the short distance across the viewfinder. Let me know if you find a difference.

    I also use spot focus small. One warning about your technique – focus then recompose is a technique that I like but the focal plane is not flat but curved. So if you focus in center then recompose the subject in the viewfinder to the edge then they will not be as sharp. Probably more a wide angle issue.

  5. Hi Rob. If you can get over not having a full frame camera, I think you would be more happy with the Olympus OMD-EM1. It focuses super fast, even in low light with the autofocus assist lamp off. I shoot candid weddings and lifestyle portraits professionally and now shoot with the OMD-EM1 exclusively. I trust the focus on my Olympus OMD-Em1 more than my Canon 5d Mark 3. I think full frame is overrated and there are many advantages to using a smaller sensor camera. I have all the bokeh that I could possibly want withe the fast primes that Olympus has. I also have the advantage of faster focusing and more dept of field at the same aperture. Yes, that’s correct, more depth of field is a huge advantage for getting more people in a scene in focus. For example, if I’m shooting at f1.4 with a 50mm lens with my Canon 5d Mark 3 and the subject is not directly facing me, only the near eye is in focus. The Olympus OMD-EM! with the 25 f1.4 lens will allow the same amount of light in while keeping more of the subjects face, such as the nose and lips and chin in focus. If the subject is interacting with another person, both will be reasonably focused as well because of the greater depth of field advantage I get with the smaller sensor. Can I make large prints with the smaller sensor? You bet. I sell 30×40 portraits to my clients and they are happy with them. Don’t get caught up thinking you have to have a full frame camera to have great pictures. I choose to use my Olympus OMD-EM1 over my Canon 5d Mark 3, unless I”m shooting sports or landscapes, which I don’t do. I disagree with you that the Sony A7 is the best mirror less camera. If you’re only getting sharp images 50% of the time, then it is clearly not very good for your purposes. I get sharp images 80% to 90% of the time in low light condition with the Olympus OMD-EM1. This for me, makes the Olympus OMD-EM1 a far superior camera to the Sony A7.

    • Hey Charles! Thanks so much for your insightful comment! Great points about the OMD-EM1. To be honest that camera had piqued my interest, but I discounted it because of the smaller sensor size. I will give it another look!

  6. Hi, I found this article after having exactly the same experience. I recently sold my D7000 and bought the A7 with the 55mm Fe 1.8 lens. I also have a young son and taking indoor light photos of him has now become a chore with most shots missed.
    The Sony A7 hunts for an eternity where the d7000 would have just locked on. Also, it sometimes locks and confirms focus on nothing in particular, as if just gives up and the entire screen is out of focus.
    Such a shame because I’ll lose money but I’m selling it all and will go back to a standard DSLR.

  7. It is all about expectations. I own a 6D (my wife uses it to shoot her sculpture), have a GH3 for video and some still work, owned EM5 and briefly had an EM1 and GX7 and GM1, recently added the A7. There is no free lunch. Like you I center point focus and recompose. The 6D is quite fast (though sometimes the red square can be tough to see) but with a 24-105L or 135/2L, it is not exactly small and light. The u4/3 cameras have quick AF, but depending on the glass can hunt in low light and also can just flat out miss. The A7 is the slowest of them all, but with the 35/2.8 and 55/1.8, it is fast enough for most uses, and tends to be accurate. I shoot all handheld and available light and have plenty of keepers.

    I do however find myself doing more MF, and use it in DMF mode almost exclusively. With focus peaking and the big EVF, manual focus is quick, easy, and enjoyable. In fact, I find myself enjoying shooting more with the A7 than I have any recent camera. The files are gorgeous. Anyone who tells you that the EM1 is equivalent is smoking’ crack. I’ve shot them side by side. Yes, u4/3 can actually be a better solution for some depending on DoF needs, but the A7 is the same size as the EM1. EM1 is maybe a better all-around camera and certainly is fast and competent. But fwiw I find the A7 more involving to shoot, and the resulting files certainly have more room to work with (both cropping and exposure – shooting raw). The 35/2.8 and 55/1.8 are both spectacular lenses. Some compare them favorably with Leica glass. Oly certainly has some great lenses too (the 75/1.8 is one of the best lenses I’ve ever shot). So really depends on what you want. But the size/weight of the A7 and the quality of the files makes up for AF speed, at least for me. Ymmv. I’d say just rethink how you shoot, take your time, and find the sweet spot for the camera. They are all tools, and some are better than others. No camera is perfect and some will speak to you and inspire you more than others.

    • Thanks for your comment Todd! I just picked up the 55/1.8 and it’s such a beautiful lens – an absolute must for the A7. I’ve never seen that kind of performance from a 50mm lens, and it’s a giant improvement over the Canon 50mm f/1.4 that we use with the 6D. The 35mm f/2.8 it also quite nice.

      I think you’re right that the A7 just takes some time getting used to it, and adjusting expectations. I mean at one point no cameras had autofocus!!

      After using the A7 for quite some time I’m really appreciating how versatile a camera it is. It doesn’t do everything perfectly, it’s certainly not the fastest focusing mirrorless camera. However after testing the Olympus EM1 it’s also not as quick to focus as our 6D. I don’t think I would be super happy with the auto focus performance of any mirrorless camera – but for pro use thats where DSLRs like the 6D and 5D mk III come in.

      As far as everyday use goes the A7 has been wonderful and I’m happy we’ve stuck with this system. I’m excited for the release of new lenses over the next couple years (an area that’s lacking right now). And I’m also stoked to see what improvements Sony makes on the next version of this camera (touchscreen? 4K video? lots of room to grow).

  8. Hey!

    Great to read all this feedback about the autofocus. I was so excited for this camera and was on the verge of buying it. I have a Nikon d7100 which is great but like all DSLRs its bulky to grab and go. I’m planning on doing quite a bit of traveling next fall and want to have a camera that’s easy to bring around but up to par to this type of quality. The a7 seemed like the perfect fit, but I’m wholly dependent on fast AF as I love to take candids and capture fleeting moments. I want something that’s small that I can always keep close to me and is dust/weather sealed – also for safety reasons; being able to keep it on me at all times is important. Do you have any suggestions to a replacement for this a7? If you could change your mind what would you go for?? Thanks!!!

    • Hey Elin!

      You can check out the Olympus EM1 for a different mirrorless camera with faster focusing – however you’ll likely find it won’t be able to keep up with the focusing speed of your D7100.

      Personally I’m sticking with the Sony A7. The autofocus is certainly slower than our 6D, but I’m getting used to it and very few shots are missed now.

      Because of how light and compact the A7 is we have been taking it with us everywhere – something we definitely didn’t do with our DSLRs.

      • Thanks for the reply! Definitely helpful. I might just wait a few more months and see if anything even better comes along..

      • Glad to know some folks are getting used to it and fewer shots are missed. However, I’m still having difficulties with many missed shots when my daughter moves. I’m not talking about fast movements. I’m referring to any movements at all.

        Here’re my settings:
        Focus Mode: Continuous AF
        Focus Area: Zone or Wide
        Pre-AF: On
        Lock-on AF: On
        Smile/Face Detect: On
        I already upgraded Firmware
        For indoor shot, I shoot Manual mode with F4 to F5.6 and 1/125 with flash.
        For outdoor daytime, I shoot Aperture mode with F4.

        I see some comments suggested Center focus area, but for slight movements, focus then recompose would have missed the shots already. I tried DMF but hard when object moves slightly. I bought the camera primarily to shoot candid family moments. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

      • actually that’s not true. the olympus e-m1 has much faster autofocus than most dslrs for static subjects. tracking is a different story. try it out, you’d be amazed at how fast the af is.

        • I agree, but you need to turn Release Prioty (drive mode menus) to “on”. This allows you to immediately release the shutter when you visually see the autofocus green box appear. In the “off” position, the camera will only release the shutter when it confirms that the subject is in focus. I’ve noticed that in this setting, the e-m1 is noticeably slower than when set to “on” . You just have to keep in mind that the faster reaction time also comes at the expense of not having the camera preventing you from releasing the shutter too early.

          In my experience, this makes the e-m1 just as responsive as a DSLR when shooting in single shot af-s mode.

    • Elin, look up discussions of the new 1.02 firmware for A7(r) on and Everyone is thrilled about how quick AF became. About the bulkiness… I bought A7 especially because I collected some nice used fullframe lenses for my previous Sony A300, planning to go fullframe sometime. So the time has come. You can put all those nice lenses on the new A7 (A-mount, Canon, Nikon, everything, with an appropriate adapter). So, with the adapter, A7 is exactly the size of APS-C Sony A-300. No difference in size or weight. So it feels just the same… except it’s fullframe.

      • Hey thanks for the tip! Sounds like very good news. Especially with the new lenses coming :) so worth it with the new firmware and eventually new lenses is your verdict?

        • Can’t really give you a verdict. A7 is not weatherproof or weathersealed. With the adapter, it’s the average size of APS-C camera. If you have some decent lenses, you might be better off with the 7100 on the go. But if you have a dream – just grab it with a 35/2.8 prime and shoot around like crazy ^_^.

          • The a7 is in fact weather sealed, as well as the kit lens. The E to A mount Adapter not only opens up a world of higher end lenses, it also speeds up the AF – meaning your Alpha lenses will operate like the SLR(T) lenses that they are!

  9. Have you tried the firmware update? Did it make a difference to the AF?

    • Hey Kumar!

      I have updated the firmware. I haven’t tested it with all the lenses (mainly the 55mm) but it seems to be a noticeable improvement. It still hunts a bit in low light and back lit situations, but in general it feels a lot more usable! I’ll be posting more photos and a followup review soon – sorry I’ve left things hanging!

      • I bought the A7 to use mf lenses and it works well.
        If I compare the AF of my A7 to the AF of my Panas , I shall make two remarks:
        Stop down with the A7 , DOF is really narrow. With focal lengths between 14 and 20 mm, you have to make great efforts to have unsharp shots using micro 3/4 cameras.
        Touch screen is a nice device for AF . It is underrated and probably not used by the reviewers. Even for MF it usefull when you use the the LCD.
        The A7 would have benefited from this feature.

  10. The FE 28-70 is perfect on my NEX-5R. Contrary to your report with the A7, it is as fast as the Sony kit E 18-55 lens, has improved resolving power, sharpness and colors. I recommend it for APS-C cameras.

  11. Have you tried using flexible spot “Large”, I found it focus much faster than the “small” spot.

  12. I think your right about the A7 AF being slightly behind the 6D and most FF SLRs on the market. The PDAF is good but not great yet. Probably why they announced the A6000 after the A7 because that mirrorless really can focus!

    One thing to keep in mind is that each AF computer is different. If you’re used to how one camera works and then pick up another one the same unconscious tricks/techniques aren’t going to work. For example the PDAF on the A7 is more about tracking less about locking onto a subject, plus once the light gets low it turns off completely. You may get better results pre focusing and using continuous AF even if you are looking to take a single shot.

  13. Very interesting point with the A7 and A7R. Like you and other photogs we focus the same way and with the A7R I seem to be having problems with auto focus, especially in a studio environment. I also noticed that there is a wiggle at the camera to lens mount that causes certain information like aperture values to fail (I get a F__) and the shutter will freeze. I have to turn the camera off and then on to get the aperture value back. I can’t say this is normal as I use a Nikon system, D800 and D600 and I don’t seem to have any focusing issues. With the D800 I did notice I had more soft focused images than my D600, given the same focusing method. The idea of the A7R, mirrorless and light weight is very appealing to me but the auto focus and the mount is something to be concerned about. I spoke to some Sony representatives who have arranged to take my camera back for analysis / repair and were kind enough to send me a loaner to use and compare while on my photo tour of Hawaii next week.

    I hope it’s just my camera and not the model as a whole. Let you guys know what I think when I get back from my photo tour.

  14. Katie Wright says

    I just have a quick question for you if you don’t mind. I am looking at purchasing my first full frame camera. I was set on the Canon 6D, but then found the A7 and am now considering that. Which camera do you suggest and also which lens? I mainly shoot my kids, our day to day life, and sometimes portraits for family and friends.


  15. So, I finally gave up on my A7R. Sony sent back my A7R and practically said there is nothing they can do about my concerns and further said that my Nikon D600 and
    D800 were completely different systems and can’t be compared. I find that reasoning to be a cop out. They practically conceded that the A7R is inferior to the D600. They should not market the A7R towards serious to pro photographers and they should price the camera accordingly, like cheaper than the D600. Anyway, for now the idea of lighter cameras like the A7R is on hold and I’m back to my heavier Nikon systems. As of date, I have upgraded my system to the D810 and the D4S. Cost a heck of a lot more but no disappointments. In the pro world you cannot afford to risk a shoot on unreliable equipment.

  16. Thanks for the hands on experience review. I decided to stay away from Sony FF until they improve on focus. The little brother, a6000 is a rocket and less than half the price. I’m >90% with capturing my fast moving kid. Patrick Murphy has some pointers on how to maximize the menu system and controls if you do decide to sell off the A7 (wait for that to mature a few years; version III perhaps?) and get the “little” brother.

  17. I am SO disappointed with the A7 AF performance. I was a longtime Nikon D50 user (remember those?) but wanted something more compact for outings, catching candids of the kids etc. I tried the NEX-6 which was not too bad but was sorely tempted by the FF of the A7….now I find myself reverting back to the D50 to be sure my success rate is better. I think the A7 is going on the market, I may keep the NEX-6 for outings but such to the D610 for anything not stationary. I wholeheartedly agree with the previous comments about avoiding Sony FF until their AF matures!

  18. Interesting read. I currently have the a6000 and enjoy the amazingly fast AF. However need to upgrade as after a year I want more from my kit. I am seriously considering the A7 however coming from the a6000 I am a bit worried about if the AF will bother me enough to regret the investment. I don’t have kids and most the shooting I do is street and cityscape however I do sometimes take snaps of friends and social gatherings. I really am stumped if i am making the right choice in changing to the A7 and will it suit my needs?

  19. Hey,

    thanks for your insight.
    I am having the exact same issue with the A7s and its slow AF. Lens is 35mm/2.8.
    I use it mainly for my work (movies, combined with the metabones adapter and Canon L-glass), MF of course.
    But for pictures the manual focus is not always ideal…
    I am coming from a 5D Mark II which has not the fastest AF either. But it is frustrating to have half of the shots of my moving daughter out of focus.

    I am seriously considering the Sony 5100, even though it is APS-C. The AF seems to be very fast and I can use all my accessories from the A7s and its lenses. Body is reasonably cheap, no FF but FF is useless if the shots are out of focus.
    Any comments? Thanks

  20. I find all the comments interesting. As I shoot video professionally, the A7 was purchased to complement the FS7 and be able to interchange lenses as needed. The A7 was to upgrade an old faithful Nikon D70. Great camera but getting a little unreliable in its old age. This purchase was also to be able to shoot my son playing baseball and so quick focusing is critical. It has therefore been interesting to read the comments with trying to keep up with little kids indoors. Outdoors, where there’s much more light, it still is slow to find movement and I have been patient in trying to figure out the right settings. Continuous shooting and switching between AF-C and AF-S is what I’ve been experimenting with as well as zone metering. DSLRs and Mirrorless are different technologies and I’m not going to compare the 2. I think there’s a learning curve involved, but Sony will should come up with a firmware update to speed up the AF.

  21. hi , I read your comments on the auto focus with the sony A7r and my a7r camera does the same thing. i took it back to the store about six weeks ago. it was sent off for repair but they said they could not find anything wrong with it. i provided many samples of video in blur but they are sending it back. i then found your comments which support my evidence. i took the sony a7r on a trip to Tasmania and paid $1000 for a helicopter trip which i video’d in several sections. half the trip is blur. i told them i want a new camera because i don’t want it happening again. the camera is still with the store.

  22. I know this is an older post but if this is still a problem maybe this will help?

  23. I noticed the same AF problem with my A7. I tried and tried and went to Youtube searching for reviews of this camera and trying to convince myself that the problem was me and not the camera.
    Finally, I got fed up and bought a Pentax K-3II, the price was right, it had the back AF button, two SD cards, etc and the thing was able to focus indoors even in candlelight situations.
    Problem solved.

  24. Has this been rectified? Keen to get the camera but this is a concern!

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